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Last Updated: 6/20/2011
Resources
Fuel Injectors & Rails
Summit Racing Equipment
Address: P.O. Box 909
Akron, OH 44398-6177
Phone: 800-230-3030
Fax: 330-630-5333
The Order Line is open 24 hours
a day, 7 days a week.
Click here to visit their website.
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OnlineMetals.com
Address:1138 W. Ewing Street
Seattle, WA 98119
Phone: (800) 704-2157 - Toll Free
Fax: (206) 285-7836
Click here to visit their website.
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Disclaimer
| The fabrication, modifications and designs you see on this web site are completed by myself. If you duplicate these modifications you do so at your own risk. I do not endorse or make any claims to their safety, performance, On-road or off-road worthiness. Any "Product Reviews" are my sole and personal opinion. These reviews are on items purchased from or provided by reputable aftermarket suppliers. All registered trademarks belong to their respective owners. |
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The first two brackets of the same type as shown in the left picture below are cut off by simply using my hack saw and working the cut and edges with a metal file. In the next picture (center) below you can see that both brackets have been now cut and temporary installed. Next is to line up the fuel rail by pushing it onto the old injectors, aligning it properly to both of the brackets, marking the fuel rail where the brackets are positioned and drilling mounting holes into the rail where they need to be.
Cutting the brackets.
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Mounting the brackets.
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Drilling the mounting holes.
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The rail is placed again onto the injectors and I am marking the brackets with a drill bit (the same bit which I used to drill the mounting holes). I then drill the brackets and tab them for the mounting bolts I am using. The mounting bolts are hex bolts I already had in my parts bin. I chamfered and countersink the holes for a nice look. I then reinstall the rail and use nuts and washers until they are perfect aligned with the mounting holes in the intake. A bit of hammering and bending of the brackets was all what was needed to get this done. I used LocTite blue to prevent the bolts from rattling loose.
The rail gets lined up with the brackets.
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Drill and tap both brackets.
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Both brackets are mounted.
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The below picture to the left shows the opposite side, you can clearly see the black hex bolts. I am now cleaning the rail as good as it can get using degreaser, brake cleaner, and fuel. I stuff small pieces of shop towels into the rails and use a long bit extension to push it back and forward in it. I finish the job by using my shotgun cleaning kit, which worked awesome for this purpose. When this was accomplished, I was ready to install a 3/8" NPT plug on the one end of the rail...
These black hex bolts look great.
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Using a hefty allen wrench...
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I am installing a plug on one end....
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...and a -8 AN to 3/8" NPT fitting on one end of the rail as the below picture to the left shows. I had to grind down the edges (see picture in the center below) of the throttle body adapter from the intake manifold a bit for a perfect fit. I used a simple sanding bit and a Dremel to do this. I covered all injectors and other open holes to avoid any particles from the grind to enter the intake. After that was done a bit of black paint did hide this modification well and I proceeded with the install of the new injectors and the fuel rail. I used engine oil to keep the injector O-rings well lubricated which helped a lot with constantly putting on and taking off the rails for test fitting. Everything did work out as intended and I was very happy with the progress made. Day one was now over and I was looking forward to a fresh start on the next day. It was just plain fun to work in my new extended garage/shop!
...and a fitting on the other.
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Grinding down the TB adapter.
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The left rail is installed.
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The driver side fuel rail was next. I repeated everything I did on the opposite side including modding and tapping the brackets for an identical setup on this side. I also drilled and tapped a hole into the side of the rail to accept the fuel intake nozzle I will be machining from brass.
Tapping the brackets.
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Test fitting the rail.
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The hole for the fuel pressure gauge.
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I installed the Summit Racing Fuel Pressure Gauge Fitting which has a 1/8" NPT tapped hole to accept the mechanical fuel pressure gauge and mounted the new aluminum fuel rail finally for good to the brackets. I then proceed to get prepared for the -8 AN fitting connecting both fuel rails together. In the picture below to the right, you can see all the stuff needed to get this done.
Installing the mechanical gauge.
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Installing the rail.
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Preparing to connect the rails together.
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The large AN Braided Stainless Steel Hose Cutter is a must have to cut this type of line. I have seen this done with cut-off wheels, hack saws, and other tools, but nothing beats this cutter. It's a clean cut and only takes a second.
My Koul Tools 681 AN fitting assembly tool finishes the rest, and a bit of assembly lubricant & anti-seize sealant from Russell ( Russell Performance 671570) makes this job a smooth one.
After I completed the line I installed it between the rails and tightened everything up very well to avoid any leaks. |
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Cutting braided line.
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Installing the fuel line.
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Machining the Fuel Intake Nozzle
It is always difficult to duplicate something if there are no drawings or specs available for. Point in case, the Fuel Intake Nozzle which accepts the Dodge Quick-Connect fuel line assembly.
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The picture to the left shows the fuel intake nozzle as found on the OEM rail. This was the part to be duplicated and it also needed to have a 1/8 NPT threaded end to be mounted or bolted into the new fuel rail which I already have prepped for it.
I started out with a piece of brass mounted into the chuck of my Harbor Freight Tools Desktop Lathe.
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The fitting as found on the OEM fuel rail.
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Turning & threading a piece of brass.
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It did took a bit of machining but finally the new fuel intake nozzle was finished and was looking good. I flattened the top and bottom of the nozzle rear threaded rim to accept a 13mm open end wrench to make the install easier. Well, everything worked out on the end and everything sealed up fine after a few adjustments here and there.
Machining the nozzle part.
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The completed fuel intake nozzle.
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Installed and done.
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Before and after!
The new aluminum fuel rails are installed and in my humble opinion look just awesome and fast. All the sensors have been plugged back in and the air filter assembly has been re-installed.
BEFORE
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AFTER - Driver side.
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AFTER - Passenger Side.
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Verdict:
The engine started up without a single hiccup. No leaks and no other issues to report. At first I had a small issue with a rough idle, but the problem was solved resetting the PCM. The gap in the RPM band is gone, in addition the engine seems to respond better to the pedal. - I now have the 24lbs injectors in for a week and the only negative side of this project seems to be that I lost 2 mpg on average which may isn't a big deal for most but I already pay for high octane on the pump and I kinda miss to get the decent milage on my performance engine.
Anyway, turns out that my buddy (a repeat contender in the Engine Masters Challenge) I had the lengthy chats with, really does know his stuff about engines.
Am I happy with the project? Heck yeah, it get's my stamp of approval!
This Project was completed on 04-30-2011
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Update: 05-07-2011 - I have had tested all of my old 19 lbs injectors and it turns out that I had a bad one, not enough to cause a CEL but I could see noticable less spray from it.
Update: 06-17-2011 - I decided to try the yellow 19 lbs Ford Racing injectors with the new multi (4 hole) spray pattern and can state that those work just as fine with the same pedal response as the blue top 24 lbs injectors but to my surprise I can happily report that my low mpg's are not only back but improved by about a half mpg. I am glad I went this route as well. I am now running the19lbs Ford Racing injectors until I truly feel the need to swap in the 24 lbs injectors again which are now residing ready for action on my performance parts shelf.
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